A Walk in the Pindari Valley

PINDARI & KAFNI GLACIER TREK, UTTARAKHAND


Pindari Valley, View from Jaikuni
Located in the midst of western Kumaon in Uttarakhand state, Pindari Valley has a distinctive popular trek route for Pindari and Kafni Glaciers. Unlike other Glaciers these two are easily accessible with a common trail only to be bifurcated at the confluence of Pindari & Kafni Rivers originating from these glaciers respectively. Easily accessible the glaciers sit at an approx. altitude of 3900 m at Pindari and 3600 m at Kafni.

The route was laid by GW Traill, the first Commisioner of Kumaon in early nineteenth century. He built the three foot wide path up the right bank of Pindari River with the idea of opening a route all the way over the Gori Ganga. Since Traill’s efforts to popularise the Pindari valley, little was done to promote activities in high mountains. Part of programme was to construct lodging bungalows at key points along the Pindari valley thereby encouraging trekking. This has proved very successful with up to 1000 visitors a year scrambling up to ‘Zero Point’ on the Pindari glacier moraine.[sic]

Trek Route Pindari & Kafni Glacier
Tourist Rest Houses (TRH), Forest Rest Houses (FRH) and Public Works Department (PWD) guest houses are thus easily available and accessible at various key junctions, some as old as 100 years. Basic cooked foods are served in the rest houses by caretakers present at the lodgings.

A minimum fitness level is required for walking the route which has lots of up-downhill hike and several rough or narrow paths. The path trails through forests, valleys and river crossings and passes revealing varied faces of the Indian Himalayas and the life inhibited around them. Peaks of Nanda Kot, Nanda Khat, Maiktoli and Changuch can also be observed along the way.

Trekking route can be divided as follows:

§  Delhi - Kathgodam – Almora – Bageshwar – Bharari – Saung.(by motorable road)
§  Saung-Loharkhet (1hr uphill hike 2km) – Dhakuri - Kharkiya (6hrs up & down Hill 8km) - Khati (4hrs 8km downhill) - Dwali (6hrs 11km) – Phurkiya - Zero point (Pindari glacier) – Phurkiya.
§  Phurkiya – Dwali – Khatia (5km+7km) - Kafni glacier – Khatia – Dwali - Khati -Kharkiya. (enroute to Dhakuri)
§  Kharkiya – Saung – Bageshwar – Almora – Kathgodam – Delhi. (by road)


Altitudes En-route


Labelled as a Tea House Trek, where TRHs can be rented and used for refreshments/ meals, one can easily stay in the TRHs located at Loharkhet, Dhakuri, Khati, Dwali, Phurkiya and Khati. Depending upon time availability & one’s stamina they can be housed at various points of the trek.   Also, en-route to Khati from Kharkiya there is a small village called Jaikuni with another stay option known as Hotel Annapona commanding magnificent views of both Pindari & Sunderdhunga Valley.


Grade of Trek : Medium.
Best Time to Visit : May-June & Sept-Oct (KMVN also organises treks to this region).
Duration : 6–9 days.
Local Porters & Guide can be hired at Bageshwar.
Camping Gear & equipment : At discretion otherwise not required.
Essentials : Warm clothes preferably in layers, Raincoats/ Poncho, good hiking waterproof boots/ shoes, Iodine tablets for water purification, snack-bars, Torch lights and camera.

Apart from these, a permit is required from Forest Department which can be collected along the way at Loharkhet which has a forest rest house.

Tourist Rest House, Dhakuri


Blooming Rhododendrons along the Trail

Khati Village

Dwali, Confluence of Pindari & Kafni Rivers

Changing Landscape after Dwali-Phurkiya


Pindari Baba’s Ashram with Pindari Glacier in the Background

Kafni Glacier

Further Reading / References:

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